Squash for Thanksgiving

SQUASH FOR THANKSGIVING

I tried to find what kinds of food were served at the “First Thanksgiving” celebrated between the Plymouth Pilgrims and the Wampanoag tribe of Native Americans in the fall of 1621.  But we have only a couple of brief passages about the feast from the Pilgrims.  Venison and lobsters were for sure on that menu and maybe even turkey, since there were plenty of wild ones in the neighborhood.  Plus fruits indigenous to the region:  blueberries, plums, grapes, gooseberries, raspberries and, of course, cranberries (but not as a relish).

And squash.  Squash is native to North America, and pumpkin and other varieties of winter squash (hubbard, acorn, butternut) were almost certainly on that first Thanksgiving menu given their importance to the Wampanoag at that time. It was typically boiled or roasted.

You may already have squash on your Thanksgiving feast menu—think pumpkin pie. But for variety you might want to also include a serving of winter squash along with the traditional turkey, mashed potatoes, green beans, dinner rolls and cranberry sauce.  (If you’re all set for Thanksgiving, you might still want to add squash to your Christmas spread or feature it in a winter meal.)

My knowledge of how to best serve squash is rather limited.  I found some great tips in this Harvard University article, Winter Squash.  Here are relevant excerpts:

“Winter” squashes are uniquely beautiful with ribbed or bumpy skins, irregular shapes, and vibrant colors ranging from yellow to orange to dark green or even multi-toned. Sometimes displayed as seasonal table decorations, they are best appreciated when featured as a star ingredient in a wide range of recipes.

Select

Choose squash that has a firm exterior and no soft spots, or cracks. Unlike some fruits that develop a softer exterior as they ripen, the rind of winter squashes becomes even firmer as they mature. The skin should be matte and hard to pierce with your fingernail, not shiny and soft, which would indicate an unripe squash. A squash with soft areas, or a moldy stem is well past its prime. You can also use the tap test. Knock on the skin with your knuckle: if it sounds hollow, it is ripe; if it sounds dull, the squash may either be unripe or spoiled.

If you have purchased an unripe squash, place in a warm sunny spot. Plenty of sunlight is key for the squash to ripen. If it is mature and ripe, store the squash in a cool dark area in your kitchen but do not refrigerate. Although some squash may last several months in the right storage conditions, it is recommended to use them within one month for best flavor.

Prepare

If you are new to cooking squash and feel the thick surface, you might wonder “How do I get into it?” The hard rinds of winter squash allow them to be stored for up to several months, but they also present a challenge when attempting to safely slice with a knife.

Rinse winter squash under cold running water before cutting. Use a vegetable brush if needed to remove any debris. After drying, you have a few options depending on the type:

1. A vegetable peeler is a good tool to remove the skin from butternut squash or sugar pumpkins, but microwaving first can make it easier. Pierce the skin of the squash in several places with a knife. Microwave the squash for about 3-4 minutes (or longer if a very large squash). This helps to soften the skin for more effortless peeling.
2. Eat the skins of thin-skinned squash like delicata. Slice in half lengthwise, scoop out the seeds with a spoon or ice cream scoop, and roast. Or you may slice into smaller strips before cooking.
3. If you wish to use the squash as a “bowl” but the skin is too thick to easily slice in half, such as with acorn or spaghetti squash, make a few knife slits around the squash. Microwave for about 5 minutes, cool, and then slice in half. It is now ready for cooking.

Make

Squash is versatile and retains its flavor whether roasting, boiling, steaming, microwaving, or simmering in a stew. Dry heat as with roasting helps to caramelize the natural sugars in the squash. The dense textures of all squash types will add heartiness with whatever cooking method is used.

Choose from the following options:

• Shape: Whole, halved into two “bowls” and stuffed, long slices, cubes, smaller dice, or mashed.
• Cooking Method:
  • Roast: After softening the skin using the microwave method above, slice squash in half, remove the seeds and stringy material, and place cut-side up on baking sheet. Rub with oil and season with herbs and spices as desired. Flip the squash cut-side down and roast in a 400 F preheated oven for 25-45 minutes (depending on the size) or until flesh is fork tender. The skin should be soft and make an indent if you press your finger into it. Remove from oven and cool for 10 minutes before handling.
    • If cooking whole, place washed squash on ungreased baking sheet and insert a few knife pricks throughout. Roast for 45-60 minutes, depending on size, at 350 F or until skin is very tender and easy to prick with a fork. Cool for a few minutes and then cut squash in half carefully, as steam may escape. Remove seeds with a spoon or scoop.
  • Boiled: Remove the skin from the squash and cut in half. Remove the seeds and stringy material (save these to roast separately later or to make a stock). Cut the squash into 1-inch chunks and place in a large saucepan, adding enough water to cover the squash. Bring to a gentle boil, cover, and simmer until the flesh is desired tenderness, about 10-15 minutes. To steam, follow the above directions but place squash in a steamer basket.
  • Microwaved: Remove the skin and cut in half, removing the seeds. Place on microwave-safe plate cut-side down and heat on high for 5-10 minutes depending on size, or until tender. Let stand for a few minutes before handling.
  • Stewed: Remove the skin and seeds and slice into uniform small chunks. Mix into soups, stews, or casseroles at the beginning of the cooking time.
• Serve:
  • Mashed: After removing the seeds and skin of a cooked squash, mash or puree the flesh with 1-3 tablespoons of oil (more if a larger squash) and a pinch of salt or spices as desired (try ground cumin, chili powder, black pepper, coriander, oregano, sage, ginger, or cinnamon).
  • Stuffed: Prepare a “stuffing” by mixing together any cooked grain (e.g., brown rice, quinoa, farro, bulgur), chopped nuts, dried fruit, and herbs. Using the roasting cooking method above with two squash halves, first make a small cut on the bottom of each half (to make a sturdy flat surface) and then roast the squash. Halfway through the cook time, remove the squash from the oven and fill the center of each half with stuffing. Continue cooking until squash flesh is tender.
    Spaghetti: After roasting spaghetti squash, allow to cool for a few minutes. Using a fork, scrape the flesh repeatedly to create noodles. Place noodles into a bowl and toss with your favorite pasta sauce, or mix with a drizzle of olive oil and chopped herbs.

 

Or look up a recipe for Butternut Squash Soup

• Tip: Cooked squash freezes and reheats well, so prepare extra squash to freeze for another day and another recipe!

 

Happy Thanksgiving!